Champagne Roger Brun: A Must-Visit in Champagne, France

One of my most memorable experiences in the Champagne region was a visit to Champagne Roger Brun.  Roger Brun is a family owned grower-producer, meaning that they grow their own grapes as well as produce their own wines.  They also manage Krug’s vineyards in the village of Aÿ, as well as press grapes for many respected Champagne houses like Charles Heidsieck. 

The Brun family has been making wine for generations.  Roger Brun's great grandfather, Léon Brun, began making Champagne in the early 1900's after learning the craft of Champagne production while working with Moët & Chandon.  Over the years, the family was often paid in vineyards and has accumulated some of the most highly acclaimed Pinot Noir vineyards in the region.

Champagne Roger Brun is located next to a stunning 15th century Gothic church in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, home to powerful Pinot Noir-based wines and esteemed producers like Bollinger and Deutz.  Grand Cru vineyards are designated as such for their superior quality, and the very best are southern facing - including the pride of Roger Brun, the La Pelle vineyard. 

I had the great fortune to taste with the owner and winemaker, Philippe Brun, son of Roger Brun.  Philippe is quite the character and is not afraid to share his viewpoints on everything from Chardonnay (not a fan) to rugby (a fanatic).  His first career was in engineering and one has the sense that he has a wicked smart, scientific mind.  Philippe left the engineering world and returned to Aÿ in 1999 to take over the helm of the family business. His passion is infectious, as is his sense of humor. In our visit, he was so friendly, fun and open to sharing his knowledge - and secrets - of the Champagne industry.  One fact I learned:  the foil on Champagne bottles was originally used to prevent rodents from eating the string that was used to hold the cork in place.  Today we mostly use a metal cage instead of string and are probably better able to control any unwanted visitors in the caves; yet the use of foil continues. I also learned that it is considered impolite for a woman to pour Champagne from the punt (the indentation) of the bottle. Hmmm.

My experience at Roger Brun was extraordinary.  I tasted through a large variety of Roger Brun wines, including some special vintages that Philippe was kind enough to share.  His finest wines are aged in old oak barrels, so as not to overpower the wines with the taste of wood. Philippe is a huge advocate for Pinot Noir-based wines and prefers Champagne that is designed for gastronomy - wines that are hearty enough to pair with food.  This is such a great point that many of us forget.  A lot of Champagnes are lovely as aperitifs, but there are also more powerful styles that are delicious when served with a main course.  In my time in the Champagne region, we drank Champagne with everything - including steak. 

Here are some of the wines in the portfolio of Champagne Roger Brun:

Aÿ La Pelle - Roger Brun’s finest wine made from 100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir, single vineyard, vinified in old oak barrels. Wonderful weight and balance and bold enough to pair with your main course. 

Brut Reserve - a blend of Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from various villages in Epernay, most of which are 1er Cru.  Easy to drink and perfect for parties.

Brut Grande Reserve - represents Roger Brun’s biggest production.  A versatile wine, Philippe has called it an emergency Champagne that can pair with anything. 

Cuvée Des Sires - a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Grand Cru Aÿ vineyards, vinified in old oak barrels. This wine is designed to age.  In its youth it can be served as aperitif, and with age will pair nicely with meals.

Reserve Grand Cru -  Pinot Noir dominates this blend with Chardonnay from Grand Cru Aÿ vineyards. This wine is powerful at the outset and should be consumed with meals.

Réserve Familiale Oenotheque - a bold wine made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in Aÿ and Avize. This is recommended for enjoying at the end of an evening with those who are like family (and with a good cigar!) 

Philippe also produces several rosé Champagnes, depending on the year.  Unlike many others in the region, Philippe makes his rosé using the Saignée (i.e., bleed off) method, where he crushes Pinot Noir grapes and macerates them with their juice until he gets the color he is looking for.  Most still rosés in France are made this way, but many vintners in the Champagne region simply blend some red still wine with the white wine to create their rosé.  Also unlike others, his rosés are vintage, meaning they have aged for at least 3 years before release.  The Roger Brun Romance rosé is 100% Pinot Noir and light bodied enough to enjoy by the pool.  In contrast, the Rosé de Saignée 4 Nuits is much heartier and dense.  The wine is named "4 Nuits" because the grapes have been macerated for 4 days, creating an intense color unlike any other I have seen.  Truly spectacular!

Champagne Roger Brun was actually just in the news, recently earning Gold Medals for 2013 La Pelle and 2004 Reserve Familiale in the Glass of Bubbly 2019 awards.  Glass Of Bubbly is a premium online resource for all things Champagne and sparkling wine.  Each year, Glass of Bubbly hosts a competition for The World's Finest Glass of Bubbly, as judged by a panel of international Champagne and sparkling wine professionals from Masters of Wine to Sommeliers.  Silver and Gold Medals were already announced but the top Trophies will be awarded at a ceremony in London this week.

At the 2018 awards, Roger Brun's 2013 La Pelle won the top Trophy for The World's Finest Glass of Bubbly in the Oaky and Toasty category, and in 2017 the 2011 Roger Brun Cuvée Des Sires took top prize in the Gastronomic category.  Will Champagne Roger Brun take home another top Trophy for 2019??  Stay tuned! www.glassofbubbly.com

Sadly, Champagne Roger Brun is not widely distributed in the United States.  However, if you are lucky, you may be able to source a few bottles from The Wine Cellarage wine shop:  winecellarage.com.  

Visiting Roger Brun was truly a special experience. As a small, family-run business, they may not always have availability for visitors so be sure to call ahead if you would like to visit.  Not only will you enjoy a wonderful selection of fabulous wines, you will have a blast! 

PS: If you are looking to immerse yourself as a local, Philippe and his wife Sophie run a bed & breakfast in Aÿ called Le Logis Des Pressureurs.  The rooms are simple, yet clean and comfortable.  The inn is open to the public year-round, except during harvest when it is reserved for the harvest workers. You can find more info here:  http://www.champagne-roger-brun.com/champagnes/index.html#champagne

Thinking of planning a culinary land tour or cruise?  Send us a note and we would be happy to help!  info@cuveewinetravel.com