A Weekend Getaway in Michigan Wine Country - Is There More to Michigan Than Blueberries?
Carol Wolniakowski
Michigan grows more fruit than any other state aside from California: peaches, cherries, apples - even grapes for Welch’s grape juice. Naturally, this means Michigan is well known for its u-pick farms, jams and sweet wines made from all sorts of fruit. But what about wines from grapes like Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon? Does Michigan have the climate, the soil and the talent to produce high quality European wines? And why would Conde Nast Traveler list Southwest Michigan as a must-visit in 2020? I hit the road to find out.
I recently led a group of wine-loving friends to Harbor Country, Michigan, just over an hour’s drive from Chicago. I wanted to create a weekend getaway centered on food and wine - a gourmet wine country experience that any foodie would love - without the need for a passport.
I chose the charming town of New Buffalo as our home base. The Marina Grand Resort was the perfect pick - fresh and modern with gorgeous views of the marina. It’s close enough to walk to town, yet tucked away enough to enjoy a tranquil night’s sleep. Comfy beds, luxurious linens, beautiful marble baths and a cozy fireplace - just lovely!
After a welcome reception in the lounge, we gathered for a delicious wine pairing dinner at Bentwood Tavern, located right in Marina Grand. The talented team at Bentwood creates farm-to-table dishes using fresh, local ingredients. In the winter they utilize local hoop house produce and cellar vegetables and herbs with the goal of making local agriculture a year-round sustainable business. I carefully chose each course to pair with a Michigan wine from their wine list (yes, the wine comes first in my book :)) The food at Bentwood was fabulous and the wines paired beautifully. The group had such a great time learning about the wines, comparing and debating their favorites. I think the most popular pairing was battered cheese curds with bubbly from Mawby Winery on the Leelanau Peninsula - doesn’t get much more Midwest than that!
The next day we set out for visits with four wineries. After a relaxing morning, our driver extraordinaire led us to our first tasting at Domaine Berrien Cellars. The owners of Domaine, Wally and Katie, were so warm, down to earth and welcoming. During our visit, both were very hands-on, with Katie overseeing things behind the bar and Wally up to his elbows in harvest. We had the chance to meet with Wally and get some insight on the history and philosophy of the winery. I asked why he chose the name Domaine Berrien and he explained that they are located in Berrien County, and that a domaine is essentially a plot of land where grapes are grown and wine is made. As Wally said, “this is not a chateau and I’m not riding a white horse.” All this to say that the focus here is on the land and on the wine - these are serious winemakers with deep passion. All of Domaine Berrien’s wines are from estate grapes, meaning that they own their own vineyards and use only their own grapes. Wally and Katie’s passion and focus are evident in their wines, which are high quality and delicious. But don’t take my word for it - one look at their wall of medals demonstrates the myriad of award-winning wines in their portfolio.
Our wine steward for our tasting was Jake. Within the first minute of meeting him, I was impressed with his breadth of wine knowledge and experience. He also was just fun to hang out with. The importance of a visitor’s experience with the tasting room associates cannot be overstated. Most people do not get the chance to meet with the owners, so the associates are a reflection of the brand and can make or break a visit. Domaine Berrien clearly understands this.
Domaine Berrien offered a large variety of wines to taste, from Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. I was excited to see that Domaine Berrien produced several grape varietals from the Rhône Valley like Marsanne and Syrah, and are proud members of the Rhône Rangers organization. Both the dry and sweet wines were a hit with our group. The Cabernet Franc Ice Wine was spectacular with rich flavors of apricot, strawberry, honey and spice. Each of us had a different favorite - definitely something for everyone. We had a fantastic time at Domaine Berrien and truly enjoyed the wines. This was a great start to the day!
Dablon Vineyards was our next visit. What a gorgeous tasting room! The design is definitely a wow factor and sets the stage for a quintessential wine country experience - with a modern twist. With soaring ceilings, large windows, a fireplace and cozy seating, it has all the elements for an enjoyable autumn afternoon. The patio outside would be amazing in warmer weather, with sweeping views of the vineyard. Dablon is located on one of the highest points in the area, which not only makes for a lovely vista, but moderates the influence of the harsh Lake Michigan cold climate, protecting the grapes from frost.
Dablon Vineyards is named after the French explorer and Jesuit priest, Claude Dablon. Claude was one of the first Europeans to arrive in Michigan (then known as New France) in the 1600's and is credited with discoveries surrounding the great lakes. Dablon Vineyards is a tribute to the history of the land and the spirit of discovery by marrying European varietals with the unique terroir of the region. This dedication is evidenced by the fact that all Dablon Vineyard wines are estate grown, produced and bottled.
The tasting room was lively and buzzing when we arrived. We took our reserved space at the bar and were presented with a diverse list of wines to taste. We each could choose 5 wines, so we decided to split the tastings so we could try as many as possible. It may seem like a small point, but the fact that the wines were served in Riedel crystal glasses demonstrates from the start that this will be an elevated experience. I really was impressed with the quality of these wines. Since Michigan is a cooler climate, the whites are crisp and lively and the reds are elegant and fruity without being overripe - reminiscent of the old world. These are fabulous food wines. The Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc in particular would be fantastic for holiday meals (which we just so happened to enjoy on Thanksgiving :)).
I had the opportunity to meet Dablon’s owner, Bill Schopf, a fellow attorney and part-time Chicagoan. Bill is not only the owner of Dablon - he also owns the Music Box Theater and a film distribution company. In fact, one of his foreign language films, Ida, earned an Academy Award - a first for Poland. As a modern-day Renaissance man, it is obvious that Bill has a unique ability to see potential and produce extraordinary results. Bill noted that the soil of Southwest Michigan is similar to the terroir of fine wine regions in France and believed this area could produce world class wines rivaling those of Bordeaux or Burgundy. I would say it is well on its way, with Wine Enthusiast naming Michigan one of the global "Wine Regions on the Rise" and rating the Dablon Vineyards 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon with 90 points.
Dablon hosts special events throughout the year, like barrel tastings, live music and even film showings. They really have mastered quality across the board: growing grapes, making wine and creating an enjoyable experience. Dablon Vineyards definitely is a must-visit in Southwest Michigan.
Our next wine adventure took place at Hickory Creek Winery. The intimate and homey atmosphere of this tasting room is a reflection of the small-batch, hands-on nature of the winery. Located in a quaint red barn on a picturesque farm and vineyard, the winery operations are steps away - allowing visitors to get a glimpse of the action. Focusing on hand-crafted European varietals, Hickory Creek aims to produce world class wines representative of the area's unique terroir.
We were fortunate to enjoy our tasting experience with the winery's owner and winemaker, Adam McBride. Adam's passion for wine began while living in one of the world's preeminent wine regions, the Mosel Valley in Germany. While there, Adam gained an appreciation for the history and culture of wine as well as the grape growing techniques of a cold-weather region. As he says, a seed was planted and after a career in the Air Force and supply chain logistics, Adam realized his dream of owning a winery.
Adam led us through a tasting of a variety of wines. Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris and dry Riesling were standout whites. It’s no wonder that crisp whites are featured given Adam’s background in Germany. The red wines included the Mélange, a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, and my personal favorite, a lovely medium-bodied Merlot. Lest we forget Michigan’s roots as a fruit-producing region, Hickory Creek’s Honeycrisp Apple Wine is a perfect wine for chilly nights when warmed and served with a cinnamon stick.
Adam’s enthusiasm and passion were infectious. We all really enjoyed an insider’s look into a day in the life of a winemaker and learning the joys and challenges of making wine, owning a winery and managing operations. Adam spoke of a wine community in Southwest Michigan that is supportive, friendly and collaborative - making all of us fall in love even more with this region.
All of the team members at Hickory Creek were friendly and welcoming, making you feel like you are visiting a friend - who happens to make great wine! The barn actually has a small event space on the second floor that can be rented for private parties. I can definitely see a Cuvée wine tasting event there in the future!!
Our last stop of the day was one-of-a-kind. The Lake Michigan Vintners Winery features wines made by students in the Wine and Viticulture Technology program at Lake Michigan College. The students assist in making the wine, but also run the tasting room to gain experience in the business and hospitality sides of the industry. The tasting room is currently located in downtown Baroda, but starting in January, a new tasting room will be opening on the Lake Michigan College campus in Benton Harbor. Visitors will be able to tour the state-of-the-art winery and enjoy tastings on the outdoor patio.
This must be one of the most unique ways to experience wine. The students are eager to share their knowledge and pride in the wonderful wines they produced. What a fantastic way to support the local wine community and the future winemakers of the world.
Each of these winery visits was unique and distinct from each other. This is the key to visiting any wine region. Even the biggest wine nerds will get bored with the same tour over and over again. Being able to meet the people behind the wine label takes the experience to a whole new level.
One important note - while many wineries are open to the public and set up for tastings, I highly recommend making an appointment in advance. Also, it is always a good idea to hire a driver for the day. And while each of these wineries offers a fantastic tasting experience, none of them is necessarily appropriate for the party-crowd. Rather, these are serious vintners making distinct wines and looking to share their passion with the world.
Southwest Michigan continues to surprise people with their wines and makes for a wonderful food and wine destination. From sweet apple wine to Bordeaux-style Cabernet Sauvignon, the area offers a large range of choices that would suit any palate. Add in a gourmet wine pairing dinner - and maybe a stop at the u-pick farm - and you have the perfect culinary getaway.
Do you have a group of wine-loving friends who would enjoy a weekend away? Click here for more info on our short-stay jaunts, European tours and culinary cruises. Cheers!