Must-Visit Wineries in Traverse City: Part Two

There are beautiful wine regions all over the world, but did you know that some of the best scenery is in Northern Michigan? The Traverse City area is home to a thriving wine community and I was fortunate to visit the region in the height of fall colors. In addition to gorgeous vistas of rolling vineyards and sparkling blue water, the wineries of Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula offer high quality wines with many great tasting experiences. In fact, there were so many enjoyable visits that I decided to split my summary into two parts (you can read Part One here). These wineries are not to be missed:

Bonobo Winery - Bonobo is owned by brothers Todd and Carter Oosterhouse, natives of Traverse City who moved to different parts of the country to pursue their careers.  With Todd as a successful businessman in Texas and Carter an acclaimed carpenter and HGTV star in California, the idea of buying a vineyard back home seemed far fetched.  Yet their Midwestern roots were firmly entrenched in agriculture, and their early days of working in a cherry orchard spurred a calling that they couldn't resist.  And when the owner of that same cherry orchard decided to sell his land, the brothers knew fate was on their side.  They bought the 40 acre property and started to plant vineyards. 

Bonobo grows classic grape varieties like Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.  They recently hired Cornel Olivier as their new winemaker and vineyard manager, and are keen to tap his experience of producing delicious wines in this harsh Michigan climate.  Cornel is a native of South Africa, where he studied wine and began his career. He moved to Traverse City in 1999 and has been rooted in Michigan soil since. I had the chance to talk to Cornel about his new role and his vision for the future.

Having worked in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, Cornel said that Michigan poses more vineyard obstacles than others given its tricky climate. It is this challenge that excites him the most. He spends a lot of time in the vineyard and has already increased production through creative vineyard management. Bonobo's focus for the near future is 5 white wines and 2 red wines, as well as sparkling wine made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the traditional method from Champagne (méthode champenoise). Although Cornel recently signed on with Bonobo, he had actually helped with vineyard operations at the winery's inception. With this history and subsequent experience making wine throughout the region, Cornel certainly is well equipped to help launch Bonobo into the future. I am eager to see how their wines evolve under Cornel's expertise.   

From the start, Bonobo's mission has been to create a fun and friendly destination winery; a place where friends gather to enjoy great wine and food and forget about life for a while. With Carter's design talent, it is not surprising that Bonobo's tasting room is inviting and thoughtfully designed to reflect the colors and textures of its stunning surroundings. Interesting elements like reclaimed barn wood, a towering fireplace and sliding barn doors add flair to the space and create a rustic, warm vibe.  Bonobo also takes food pairing to another level beyond crackers and cheese. Guests can enjoy hearty small bites like Korean pork tacos and chicken salad sliders to pair with their glass of wine either by the fire or out on the large deck overlooking the sweeping vineyards.

In keeping with their vision for a fun and non-pretentious wine experience, the brothers decided to name the winery after the bonobo ape, an endangered species from the Congo.  Carter got the idea from a National Geographic article that described the bonobos as very social and playful creatures - just the vibe they were looking for. The winery supports the work of the Bonobo Conservancy, whose mission is to protect bonobos, preserve their tropical rainforest habitat, and empower local communities in the Congo Basin. From their whimsical name to the inviting tasting experience, Bonobo Winery's message is clear: come on in and join the fun!

Mari Vineyards - This was another stand out visit for the quality of wines and tasting experience. Mari Vineyards owns over 60 acres of vines planted with 22 varietals, including interesting grapes like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese in addition to classic grapes like Merlot and Cabernet Franc. In a nod to his Italian heritage, Mari Vineyards' founder Marty Lagina had the vision to try to grow grapes unique to the Midwest and typically grown in Italy.  The wines I tasted were among the best in the region. I especially loved the Praefectus Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon blend and have been excited to share with friends back home. My favorite comment: “For a Michigan red, I am very surprised.”

What I found truly fascinating is that Mari Vineyards uses a unique growing technique called Nellaserra. Being in a cold climate, it can be tough for Michigan wineries to get their grapes to fully ripen (some parts of the country have the opposite problem, where the sun and heat can cause overripe, high alcoholic wines). To combat this problem, Mari set up temporary greenhouses or "hoop-houses" over certain rows of vineyards, which protect these vines from the harsh climate. This technique allows Mari to add up to four weeks of additional growing time (!), enabling the grapes to stay on the vine longer while they ripen. The use of hoop-houses in agriculture has really grown in recent years. I suspect we will be hearing more and more about it.

The Mari tasting room has a lovely view of the water from the winery patio - if it was 65 and sunny, you couldn’t drag me out of there.  Even on a dreary day, it was pretty. Inside, the feel was rustic, warm and cozy, with both a tasting bar and comfy seating. My server Jesse was fabulous and I really enjoyed my time with her.  So often, the server can make or break your experience and she really elevated our time at the bar.  I would recommend a tour and seated tasting to have time to really taste through the offerings.  

Shady Lane Cellars - Shady Lane prides itself on being a "destination experience," and upon arrival you immediately see why: the tasting room is located in a gorgeous 100-year old fieldstone building on spacious grounds with a covered pavilion, outdoor bar and fireplace overlooking the vineyard.  What started as a fruit farm and chicken coop has been transformed into a unique and rustic, yet elegant tasting venue. I was charmed before I even walked in. 

Shady Lane's history dates back to 1989 with Pinot Noir and Riesling planted on 11 acres.  It now spans 150 acres with the addition of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Blue Franc (also known as Blaufränkisch or Lemberger), Gewurztraminer and others.  I counted nearly 15 different wines and ciders in all styles, so there is definitely something for everyone.

Shady Lane offers many unique experiences such as wine and cheese tastings, production tours, outdoor concerts and even a BBQ harvest party in September - mark your calendars!  Their picturesque grounds are the perfect setting for private events. I can only imagine how lovely a vineyard wedding would be (please invite me :)). This is definitely a spot to linger for a while, so be sure to make a reservation for an enhanced tasting experience.

Traverse City offers many wonderful food and wine experiences year-round. In the winter, you can sip red wine by a cozy fireplace and take in the stunning fall colors.  In the summer, you can enjoy chilled riesling on the terrace overlooking the crystal blue lake. The wineries of Northern Michigan offer both the quality wines and tasting experiences that any wine enthusiast would love. 

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