Love it or hate it, Beaujolais Nouveau arrives in wine shops and grocery stores today! What started as a local French tradition has become what some call a global rite of autumn – the first taste of the new wine harvest. Others call it a marketing ploy for suckers.

Ouch.

On the third Thursday of November each year, wine enthusiasts all over the world will uncork the newest vintage of the young, fruity red wine from the Beaujolais region in France, located in southern Burgundy just north of the city of Lyon. The Nouveau grapes are quickly handpicked, fermented, bottled and distributed – all within about a 10-week period. The grapes are actually fermented whole, as opposed to crushed, to minimize the tannins typically found in red wines. This speedy production creates an inexpensive, lively and easy-to-drink wine (even white wine lovers enjoy it!). Due to its light body and structure, Beaujolais Nouveau is best served slightly chilled and should be consumed within six months.

By French law, no one may sell this wine prior to midnight on the third Thursday of November. A simple administrative text, along with some savvy marketing, sparked a social phenomenon full of festivals, release parties, and long lines at wine shops worldwide.

Sounds fun, no? So why the hate?

Because of the swift production and marketing blitz, wine purists warn not to give in to the hype. In fact, some claim that this wine is nothing more than bad Kool-Aid that has ruined the fine reputation of the region’s other wines.

Beaujolais Nouveau is a simple, young wine quickly made and released, unlike the region’s high quality wines. Although made from the same Gamay grape, the Nouveau wines bear little resemblance to the more complex, albeit lesser-known, ageable wines. Beaujolais has become famous for their cheap wine - not exactly the message you want to send.

So what are these quality wines and how do you find them?

Cru Beaujolais is the finest expression of the Gamay grape. It’s made from vineyards designated by the government as the very best in the region. There are 10 Cru vineyards in total, each with its own unique character.

The wines are quite aromatic and fruity with flavors of raspberry, tart cherry and cranberry as well as mushroom, smoke - and even banana or bubblegum! With soft tannins and high acidity, Cru Beaujolais pairs well with many foods from cured meats and soft rind cheeses to bistro favorites like steak frites. It is actually a perfect wine for Thanksgiving dinner.

The region makes other lovely wines that may not be from a Cru vineyard, but can still be pleasing to drink. Like the rest of France, the bottle label will state the appellation: Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Supérieur or Beaujolais-Villages. If it is a Cru, the label will state the name of one of the 10 vineyards: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, or Côte de Brouilly.

Believe it or not, high quality Cru Beaujolais can sometimes be mistaken for Burgundy, making it a phenomenal value. It is probably one of the most underrated wines in the world.

While no one argues that Beaujolais Nouveau is a preeminent wine, enthusiasts all over the world cannot resist the chance to be among the first to taste the fruit of the harvest. After all, drinking wine is supposed to be fun!

I say get out there and decide for yourself – try a glass of Nouveau wine and then a Cru Beaujolais. Note the differences and enjoy them both for their own unique qualities. I personally purchase a bottle of Nouveau every year and love raising a glass in celebration of the new harvest - I may sometimes be a sucker for a marketing ploy, but I am always a sucker for tradition. Cheers!